Cold Water Tactics 10/05/2010
Once hunting season rolls in, it seems like everyone puts away their tackle and hits the woods. This can be a huge mistake! Some of my biggest fish have come from the cold months (not to mention you have a better shot at a toothy critter like a Pike or Muskie... and the walleye bite is at it's peak!). Here are a few things you can try to find those dormant bass: Jigs Jigs are an effective lure any time of the year. During the colder months, the key to catching jig fish is bottom contact and a very slow retrieve. Bass will rarely grab a jig on the fall when it's cold, so dragging the jig along the bottom is vital to getting these fish to bite. Swim jigs will also work, but keep your weights as low as possible. The lighter the weight, the slower you can reel and keep the swim jig off the bottom. Another key to cold water jig success is color. Aquatic creatures tend to lose their vibrant colors during the cold water months. I have caught bass in mid winter that were almost completely silver! Try and use jigs that don't have a lot of flash and go for a more neutral colored jig. Black and blue, brown and white are all good choices for cold water. Spinnerbaits You might be asking yourself, "Why would I use a spinnerbait if you just told me to keep it slow?" Good question! The key to cold water spinnerbait success is a stop and go retrieve. Reel the lure just enough to get the blade spinning, then stop and let the bait fall to the bottom. The fish will usually hit the lure just as you start to retrieve again, so be ready for the strike. I like to use dual willow blades when the water is cold. I can keep the lure closer to the bottom with willow blades and this can be key to finding the fish. Keep your colors simple - white and white/blue are great colors to use. Crankbaits Yet another bait we usually burn across the water, but a suspending crankbait in fall and winter can be deadly. Notice the key word here - suspending. You don't want to move this bait very fast, so reel just fast enough to get the bait down and slightly wobbling, then stop. Just like the spinnerbait, the fish will likely hit the bait when you start retrieving again. I like to throw deep divers and find the fish that are hanging near the bottom. Flukes Besides my jig trailers, flukes are the only other soft plastic I like to throw in cold water. It's not that other plastics won't work, it's just that the fluke produces a more consistant bite. You can do all kinds of different rigging techniques with flukes, but dropshotting and dead sticking are going to be the winners in the winter! You don't want a fast, irractic action when it's cold. Keep the bait near the bottom and try giving it light twitches without much movement. I throw 2 colors of flukes in the winter - white and gray/silver. Grays and silvers will produce more than the whites, but some days the white is the only color the fish want. Suspending Jerkbaits I saved my favorite and most productive technique for last... The suspending jerkbait. There's something about this little minnow that fish just cannot resist, not matter how cold it gets. This is also a good way to get pike and walleye to bite and any time you can target multiple species at once, you're bound to have a productive day! If you're not bored while throwing a jerkbait during the cold months, you're fishing it too fast. Throw it out and let it sit for 15+ seconds ,then give it a few small jerks, reel in some slack and wait. Try and keep some slack in your line before jerking, this will allow some baits to completely turn around and trigger strikes. Patience is key - I have been known to let the bait sit for 30 seconds to a minute between jerks. Hands down, the most productive jerkbait you can use during the cold months is a Rapala Xrap. The unique action this bait provides, matched with the dressed treble hook, can make all the difference. My favorite colors are glass ghost, olive green and silver. As far as sizes go, try and throw the smallest size your rod can handle. I like the XR08 and the XR10, but I do have a few XR06 and even some XR12's. Don't put your fishing gear away when the temperature drops, you could be missing some of the best fishing of the year! Not only can you catch some good fish, you'll normally have an entire lake or section of river to yourself! Just make sure you bring the camera, no one will be around to see your prize :) -Nate 4 Comments Tough bite? Try a drop shot! 08/16/2010
Honestly, this summer has been a grind for me. Since we have been experiencing temperatures in the upper 80's and 90's, the water has really warmed up. For me, that has translated into tough and often slow fishing. I have found myself using a drop shot to get bites, maybe it will work for you! A drop shot is nothing more than a weight at the end of your line and a small hook 6"-18" above the weight. I prefer to use 8 lb braided line with a 6 lb fluorocarbon leader of about 5'. I connect the lines with a double uni knot. My hooks of choice are Gamakatsu split shot / drop shot in size 1. I use a 6'9" Kistler drop shot special spinning rod that is medium action. I pour my own cylinder style weights and find that 3/16, 1/4, 3/8 ounces will get the job done just about all the time. I connect the hook to the line with a palomar knot and be sure the hook point is facing up when you finish tying the knot. As far as bait selection, let your imagination run wild. Most often I use 3-4" straight worms but small beavers, grubs, craws, tubes, minnow style baits, leeches, will all get bites. The drop shot is often considered a deep and clear water technique but if you don't try it in other situations your missing the boat! In lake situations, I cast it out, let it sink, then shake it on a slack line. I let the fish dictate how much I shake it. Lately, a dead stick approach has seemed to work best but I have had days when I shook it as violently as I could without lifting the weight off the bottom too much. In rivers or moving water, I cast it up current and work it back to me. Vary your weight size to the depth and current. If your constantly getting snagged, go lighter. If your not feeeling bottom, go heavier. This technique works equally well for smallmouths and largemouths. Just a few weeks ago I landed a 5.46 smallmouth and two largemouths over 3 lbs for a nice tournament limit, all on a drop shot. Give the drop shot a try, you'll be suprised how productive and fun it can be! A lot of people are under the impression that they need a boat to get the most from their fishing. While it does make life a little easier, especially on large bodies of water, you can still find the fish from the shores! Nearly 75% of my fishing trips are without a boat and some of my most memorable and biggest fish have come from the shoreline. Here are some techniques I use when I'm not floating. Move! I see it all the time - Angler's pick their spots and don't move for the rest of the day. If you're not catching fish in a boat, don't you usually move? Yes, so start walking! I will fan cast an area with a few baits and if I don't hook up or get a bite, I move on. Normally, I stay in an area without a bite for no more than 20 minutes. This should be all the time you need to find fish. Don't be afraid to get in the water either! Stay downstream from a good spot Another mistake I see people make is standing right next to a good fishing spot. When I see a spot I know will hold fish, I ALWAYS stay downstream from it. Normally, fish will be facing into the current. If you stay downstream from them, you'll more than likely keep yourself in their blind spot. Also, this will allow you to cast upstream and bring your offering to the fish with the help of the current. Fish will normally be hanging out in slack water, watching the current for small fish or forage that comes by. Below is an example: Most people stand out on the rocky area and fish the current. The fish are usually holding behind that structure, right beside where people fish from. This will spook the fish, turning this producive area into a dead zone. Stand downstream in the deeper water and cast for the arrow, then you will be rewarded: Find spots that are hard to reach I love going off the beaten path to find great fishing spots. Why? Because for one, I just love to explore and this will add another good spot to my list of secret holes. Also, if a spot is hard to get to, it probably doesn't get a lot of fishing pressure and the fish may be more willing to bite. Access points are magnets for anglers because they are easy to get to. All the activity of boats going in and out of the water and the added pressure from anglers will usually send the fish packing! Change your cast I see it all the time - anglers casting straight out from where they are standing and just reeling the bait straight back. They may catch a straggler here and there, but they are missing the fish that may be holding right beside them. I rarely, if ever, cast out to the middle of the body of water I'm fishing. Almost all of my casts are made paralleling the bank or a nice piece of cover I find. Analyze the current, depth, cover and structure of the area and make your casts count! Analyze the area This obviously isn't something you want to do right before you decide to fish an area, but this is an important step for unfamiliar waters. If I find a spot that looks great, I'll go back to it, not to fish, but to analyze the area. Try to get a good idea of what's going on under the water. Find out where the current breaks are (some could be hidden under the water), see what the bottom type is, look for quick depth changes, and look for hidden cover. If you can't get in the water, poke around with your rod or a long stick. You can even explore with a jig, I will tie on a heavier jig (3/8 to even 1 oz. depending on depth) and bounce it along the bottom. Try and paint a mental picture of what's going on under the surface so you have a better understanding of where the fish will be holding.The surrounding banks may also help you understand what the bottom looks like. If the banks are steep, more than likely they continue the same slop under the water too. Hopefully these techniques will help you from the bank. Give it a try and I bet you'll get bit! Catching Post Cold Front Bass! 07/14/2010
There are actually a few different factors to consider when a cold front moves through:
Temperature Drops After Cold Fronts: If a cold front has just come through and brought cold rain and air temperatures with it, you can bet that this will have a dramatic effect on the water temperature. When the water cools considerably, the fish will become less active. Their strike zone will also shrink, so you will have to bring your offering closer to the fish. You'll have your best chance at finding bass along rocks, as rocks retain heat and are usually warmer. It may be a good time to note that in the fall months, the above point has a much different effect. During the fall months, these cold fronts remind the fish that winter is coming and this will put them into a feeding frenzy. They need to gorge themselves with baitfish to prepare for the cold and dormant winters ahead. Air and Water Pressure After Cold Fronts: Another environmental effect on bass is the air and water pressure. It's not the cold front itself that kills the feeding for bass; it's the rising pressure that comes after the cold front. It is suspected that this rising pressure has adverse affects on the bass's swim bladder and causes them to have a hard time staying upright in the water. Rising pressure is going to push these fish deep and put them tight against cover. The change in pressure isn't as great in the deep water, so that is why shallow fish will move. It should also be noted that a change in pressure doesn't seem to affect big bass as much as a cooling effect does. Recent studies have shown that big bass usually remain in the same area during a rising pressure effect, but tend to move away from cooling waters (again, this isn't true in the fall months). So how can these fish be caught after a cold front rolls through? There are a few things you need to change to get these fish to bite. The first thing I change after a cold front is the size of my lures. For example, under normal conditions, I usually throw a 3/8 oz jig with a 3 ½ inch trailer (Usually a 'Strike King 3x Chunk' or 'Rage Craw'). After a cold front, I drop down to a 3/16 oz Bitsy Bug jig with a 2 ½ trailer (Rage Tail Chunks work great, as well as 'Yum' CrawBugs). For worms, I normally throw a 5 3/8 inch BPS Stick-o-Worm on a Texas rig or a Luck 'E' Strike 4 inch or 6 inch ring worm. After the cold front, I switch the Stick-o-Worm to a 3 inch size on a whacky rig. For the ring worm, I'll switch to a Luck 'E' Strike 4 inch Razor Worm, but I'll cut about an inch off the front, making it a 3 inch worm, and throw it on a Texas rig with a 1/16 oz. bullet weight (don't be afraid to snip some plastic, sometimes you can get better results with a shorter profile). You can also cut the head off of the ring worm, giving it a smaller profile in the water, but I find the razor worm works better in some situations. Downsizing is just the first piece of the puzzle; you also have to change how you fish these baits. Typically after a cold front, the bass are going to move deeper and get very tight to cover. You have to remember this when your choosing your fishing spots. The first thing you want to do is flip that bait INTO the cover, not around it, not in front of it… INTO the cover. You may lose a few jigs or worms until you get the hang of it, but this is the best way to get these fish to bite. Another great way to catch fish involves finding a very specific area. In this area, you're looking for shallow water with cover (weeds or a brush pile) that has a quick transition to deeper water. Put yourself on the shallow side of this set up and throw your offering into the deep water. Slowly skip the bait up the bank (maintain bottom contact!) toward the shallow side and the cover. This is a great tactic to find exactly where those fish are holding in the water column. Remember to keep your presentation SLOOOOW. I hope these tips help you find some nice post cold front bass. Don't let those cloudless skies scare you away from the water. Those fish will bite; you just have to give them what they want! -Nate Tandem Fly Rigs 06/23/2010
To double or even triple your chances of finding the right nymph the trout are eating, or give the trout more options is to use a tandem rig. A tandem rig is when one nymph is tied on the end of your leader or tippet then another nymph is dropped off your main nymph about a foot and a half to 2 ft. When fishing a tandem rig, I usually like to fish my bigger nymph as my first nymph then drop my smaller nymph off that. If I'm fishing two nymphs the same size, then i usually make the second nymph the one i have more faith in or the one that rides a littler higher in the water column. My rig usually goes something like this (this time of year when the water is low and clear otherwise, my tippets probably 5x all the way)- 3ft piece of 5x tippet off my leader, 2ft piece of 6x tippet off that, then my first nymph is usually a size 12-14 beadhead prince, bh hares ear or bh stonefly with 2 small black wingless split shots a few inches above, with another 18-24" piece of tippet. I tie that through the same hook eye as the first nymph (some tie directly on the hook) then another small split in the middle of this piece of tippet. Then I tie on my 2nd nymph usually being a size 16-20 prince, caddis larvae, or pheasant tail. Once you've mastered the double nymph rig with a lot less tangles, try 3 by doing the same thing you did with your first dropper off of your second nymph. With the 3rd though, I would leave out the small split halfway on the piece of tippet and maybe go with a soft hackle fly or something that will can cover 3 different fieeding lanes of the water column. This should greatly improve your nymphing success since trout can be so picky as to where in the water column they are feeding and what nymphs or flys they are feeding on. Here's a few different things to try with your soft plastics to give the fish something new to strike: 1. Nose hook a stick or soft jerkbait with an offset bend Octopus Hook - I do this with baits like Senkos, Slug-o's and El Grande Match Hatch Sticks. The unique bend of the octopus hook, along with the offset bend of the hook point, gives the bait a very different fall and unique action when twitched. 2. Wacky rig baits off center - Hooking the bait a little more toward the front will still give it a vertical fall, but it will give it a different action. Try this when the standard wacky rig just won't produce! Try adding a slip weight to mix up the action even more. Experiment with different hook styles and sizes and also with different weights when the bite gets tough. You never know what is going to trigger a strike! -Nate Don't Fear the Swimbait! 06/04/2010
Swimbaits aren't something you hear a lot about in Pa, or even anywhere in the East. Swimbaits can be a very effective way to trigger a big bass to strike or it can even be used as a search bait. I'll share my techniques with you here: Using Swimbaits as a search bait When I fish a new body of water (especially when I'm not using a boat) I will throw swimbaits to search for fish. Even if you don't get a strike, these baits will pull lunkers out of hiding. Be prepared to follow up with another bait if you see a follower. I usually throw a texas rigged plastic (like a tube or worm) or a small jerkbait. You want to throw these baits around quick depth transitions, weed lines, structure changes and flats (especially during spawn). A good strategy to use is paralleling the shoreline or the areas mentioned above. Get those lunkers to bite! Nothing is more effective at getting a lunker to commit than a swimbait. If you used the search technique and are still coming up short use this next technique to get the big one! Look for a cloud of baitfish in or near deeper water and cast your swimbait to it. Let the swimbait fall under the cloud of fish and hold on tight. The bait should get nailed as, or just before, it hits the bottom. If it doesn't get picked up, slowly roll it across the bottom, just above the ground. Slow down your retrieve and let it hit the bottom occasionally. Big bass are smart - they are going to be watching the small ones chase the bait and will be waiting in the depths for a stunned fish to hit the bottom. The big bass won't be wasting energy chasing fish around so don't waste your time swimming your bait in the cloud. Styles and Rigging With the hundreds of different styles of swimbaits out on the market today it can be hard to pick that perfect lure. The short answer is: There isn't just 1 perfect swimbait. When I am choosing a swimbait I like to keep things as simple as possible. I'll look at the area I am fishing and try and figure out which baitfish are dominant in that body of water. Once I figure that out, I'll find the swimbait that matches the baitfish both in size and color. Usually something as simple as all white will be enough to cover most situations. As far as size goes, I'll throw two sizes - 3 inch and 5 inch. Most baitfish don't get much bigger than this, so no need to waste your time and money on other sizes. I'll rig a swimbait 1 of 3 ways, depending on where and when I'm using it. Texas Rig - I use this a lot when I'm throwing into bait clouds and also when I'm fishing beds during spawn. Weightless - Again, I'll use this when I'm throwing into bait clouds. I don't like to throw swimbaits weightless when I'm going to be cranking them as they tend to twist. Weighted hook - I use these when I'm searching for fish and running the bait pretty quickly. The faster I want to move the bait, the more weight I'll use. Swimbaits are a great way to find some quality fish, so don't be afraid to use them. Just keep it simple and follow some of my techniques and you'll find fish! Have fun and stay safe out there! -Nate |








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